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THE BUSH TAXIS OF GOGAMA LODGE
The Haviland Beaver has a distinctive motor noise that most of us who travel the back country can distinguish from any other aircraft. It was late in the afternoon of one of the hottest days in August when my wife Linda was the first to hear the plane approaching. "Reel in." she said. "Our taxi's here." Since shortly after daybreak there were no man-made sounds, not even a commercial airliner overhead, just conversations between a pair of loons and the gentle lapping of waves against the tin boat. The nearly 1,000 acre lake was ours for the day and we were very reluctant to give it up.
Dick Harlock, our bush taxi driver for the day and owner of Gogama Lodge in Northern Ontario, and his son Rod are not your ordinary taxi drivers. Neither are the other two pilots that shuttle hunters and fishermen into the surrounding Arctic watershed. From the jumping off point at the north end of 21-mile-long Lake Minisinakwa, in the tiny village of Gogama, sportsmen enjoy First Class meals and accommodations and some of the most productive woods and waters I've ever encountered.
Until last year the lodge was considered to be one of the top springtime bear hunting destinations, and still enjoys that designation for the fall bear season. However, the Province dropped the spring bear hunt amidst controversy, leaving the Harlocks and other Northern Ontario outfitters with only the option to offer fall bear hunts and moose hunting packages to supplement the summer and fall fishing.
If there were a shortage of black bears in the region, you wouldn't know it, after talking with guests. We stopped to photograph a sow and two cubs on the way into camp, right at mid-day alongside a busy highway. Another guest spoke at dinner on our first night, of the two bears that wouldn't leave the float plane dock on the remote lake they visited, until the plane arrived. Still another talked of photographing a bear that was eating blueberries, and it didn't seem to mind their boat being several feet away.
This was our fifth trip to Gogama Lodge and the first during the really hot summer season. Still, I begged to be dropped into one of my favorite brook trout and rainbow lakes where I had taken 4 and 5 pounders in previous years.
The main food source from all species of fish in northern Ontario is leeches, crawfish, minnows and the largest hexagenia mayflies I've ever seen. And, of course, in most of the cold water ponds, there is quite a lot of carniverous activity.
During my first trip to the lodge in 1992, Dick and I fished two of the cold water ponds that yielded brookies in the 2-3 pound size, so it was not a stretch for me to expect similar fish on this outing.
The water temperature was a surprising 64 degree F despite the nearly 90 degree air. While I would have loved to stay on top with the flyrod, I knew that except for sunrise and sunset, the fish would be deep. Opting for an ultralight and Blue Fox Roostertail spinner, white in color and 1/16 ounce in weight, I worked the deepest water first, with no hits.
On each of the ponds, the Harlocks have flown in tin boats in the 12-14 foot size and with each flight we carried 2 hp Yamahas and extra gas. Except on the largest of the lakes, wind and wave action was not a factor and the outfits were ideally suited to the task.
Now, the purist fisherman would shudder at what I was about to do, but, in the past, adding a tiny, half-inch section of garden worm to the treble hook to create a smell track made all the difference in the world. Instantly my rod bowed followed in a second or two by Linda's. Each of us battled, landed and released brook tout in the 2-pound class.
One by one I dragged out all my southern Maine landlocked salmon trolling tactics. I trolled in tight S-curves with 50 feet on line off the stern. Then I did even tighter figure eights with 100 feet of line out and finally, I added an eight-ounce splitshot to the line a foot up the line from the lure and, Bam!
The 5-foot ultralight rod bowed like it would break. On the other end, after 20 minutes of being careful not to stress the line or allow the fish to get into the shoreline blowdown, a 6 pound rainbow lay whipped beside the boat. No one was more surprised than I at the sight of this beauty. Not once did the fish take to the air in traditional rainbow style. All the while I was certain of it's being a brook trout.
Unlike the fly-in fishing trips offered in other regions of North America, the Gogama Lodge offers a bush taxi service to more than two dozen lakes and ponds within half an hour flying time. Northern pike, walleyes and smallmouth bass are the primary species in the region, but as I just mentioned, lake trout, brookies and rainbows can be targeted.
The base camp offers clean, comfortable cabins that can be described as being between rustic and elegant, featuring daily maid service and a full-size refrigerator. Guests are treated to gourmet meals served on white linen tablecloths. In the time-honored sporting camp tradition, the fishing surely revolves around mealtimes. During our recent stay, Linda and I enjoyed Yankee Pot Roast, barbecued steaks, prime rib and two fish fries. Each meal complimented with home baked breads and desserts.
Each of our mornings began with a hearty breakfast, followed by a choice of lake and species of fish, to which the pilots would drop us off and pick up later in the day. It was like owning private waters, complete with cottage, boats and airplane taxi service.
The Harlocks have placed boats on 48 remote lakes and have constructed outpost cabins on 15. For those with the will and stamina to endure rustic cabin life, the outpost option is available, and you can save some money. Just bring along a light sleeping bag. The cabins have all the cooking materials and utensils as well as propane lights and stoves.
What makes this type of service so unique is the instant availability of remote lake access. Should the day begin with dense fog or thunderstorms, Minisinakwa offers outstanding northern pike, walleye and smallmouth bass fishing, as well as Lake Whitefish in the 2-pound range. Then, when the weather clears, the pilots will quickly round up guests and fly them to nearby lakes.
The season runs from June through early October. The hottest cold water fishing is late June or early July and then again in September. All you'll need is the appropriate common sense gear. Despite the daily fly-ins, you are in wilderness conditions and extra clothing or first aid kit and survival gear can't hurt. I found a couple of medium action rods handled the northern pike (3-10 pound average) and 2-5 pound smallmouths well. In June lake trout are near the surface so sinking fly lines work well and if you want to bother, some light leadcore of two or three colors will get you to the fish.
In early July you'll love the lake whitefish on the surface with flyrods. Be sure to bring along some high-riding Wulffs or anything that imitates a huge mayfly. And, you still have plenty of daylight after dinner to fish near the camp.
Despite the easy access to the lodge, the town of Gogama has a population of around 300 and you'll have to travel an hour north to Timmins or south to Sudbury for larger amenities. You really need to crave the slow pace of a wilderness outing to visit Gogama.
Because the air taxis are the central focus of the lodge, it's important to book in pairs. Each Cessna aircraft is outfitted to take a pair of hunters or fishermen into the bush with a moderate amount of gear. Single or the third man out leaves the pilots very few choices other than to book two parties on a single lake.
Another bit of handy advice is to book early, in the fall or winter for the next summer and fall trip. Gogama Lodge accommodates a maximum of 40 guests and housing is by party. Each party has its own cabin rather than dormitory style lodging.
Of all the camps I've visited over the years, this is one of the few I could really send novice fishermen to and have them expect a wilderness experience, with comfortable lodging and outstanding food. And, it's on the even shorter list of destinations where novice fishermen of any age are likely to catch the most and the biggest fish of their lives.
Gogama Lodge offers fishing and hunting packages to fit almost any sportsman's budget. In fact with the U.S. to Canadian money exchange rate, American fishermen can enjoy a 7 day 4 fly-in package for under $1,000, soups to nuts.
Check out the Gogamam Lodge webiste at http://www.gogama.com or call (705) 894-2770 or fax at (705-894-2150. The mailing address is Gogama Lodge, P.O. Box 127, Gogama, Ontario, Canada P0M 1W0.
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